The Soul Kitchen restaurant review

Way behind the curve when it comes to veggie meals, France still worships a rare steak above all things, and this is therefore a refreshing and very welcome addition in town.

Not wanting to be pigeonholed, Laury, the owner, is wise enough to still do a varied menu, including some mountain classics, but with a twist. There is for example a great tartiflette, that comes with tasty mushrooms instead of lardons (bacon bits). Yes, I know, most traditional French chefs seem to think lardons are acceptable for vegetarians, as they come in the ubiquitous omelette that is inevitably the only dish you get offered if you dare to mention the V word! Not so here.

The Soul Kitchen is a cosy and small place near the centre of town just down a side street between the Bresilien Bar and the Casino supermarket. Apparently The Soul Kitchen (the clue’s in the name) is already well known amongst the locals for playing great background tunes over dinner. I have to say I didn’t really notice, which I think means they are probably doing it right. There is a small bar where you can have a drink too and table seating for around twenty five people. At the bar someone was having the tasting platter which looked brilliant and might have aubergine paté, a selection of cheeses and charcuterie on it (it’s not exclusively vegetarian) depending on the chef's selection on the day.

There was a blackboard with a choice of three or four main courses, plus a couple of starters and desserts, and the evening ‘menu’ is fantastic value at 20 euros. It would be great value in any city but is really great value for a ski resort. Laury also mentioned a couple of other specials that were available, plus the quiches that were almost done and that we could smell baking in the tiny open-view kitchen. I opted for the Khoa Phad Sapparod Thai dish. This consisted of a half pineapple scooped out and filled with a delicious mix of fragrant rice, vegetables and cashew nuts, and was absolutely delicious and beautifully presented. At our table other mains chosen included the Brie Aux Pommes et Caramel Beurre salé - an individual casserole dish of melted gooey hot cheese with a sweet and savoury caramelised golden top and crispy new potatoes combo.

Our starters had all come with a big green salad with the ‘house’ dressing with its secret ingredients - it was strong flavoured and earthy, and I’m guessing but I think one of those ingredients might be walnuts or chestnut puree. Every dish was presented and explained with care and attention, by someone who obviously takes great pride in the quality of the food he is serving. It's a sensibly sized menu, which felt in no way limiting as I wanted to eat everything that was on it and felt spoilt for choice.

Fancying the mango and pineapple crumble, but fearing I didn’t have space after the main and the huge and hearty French Onion soup starter, I went for the lighter option of Nougat Glace that wasn’t on the menu but was suggested as an extra choice after the mains were taken away. Served with a rich raspberry coulis this hit the spot and again left me staggered at the value for money once we had sampled all three courses.

Keeping it fairly local, we chose a decent Cotes-du-Rhone Valvigneyre (syrah) red, from vineyards 60km south of Lyon, under 20 euros a bottle.

We're looking forward to going back again soon as the big quiches lined up on the counter made my mouth water even as we were leaving and I knew I didn’t have space for another forkful. Talking of pronged cutlery, ‘Forks over Knives’ sums it up nicely! I would definitely recommend this place.